Split is the second largest city in Croatia with ~180,000 residents. It is on the Adriatic sea and is a popular place for tourists. The city was founded in 2nd or 3rd centuries BCE. The usual cited date for the cities origin is when the roman emperor Diocletian built this retirement castle. Diocletian was the only Roman emperor to die of old age. Somehow he managed to step down as emperor and build a castle in Split and reside there until his death.
We did an excursion to a farm house about 40 minutes from Split. Our guide was a very funny man and full of information. For example he said that in Croatia the first thing you do in the morning is drink a shot of grappa (a drink which is 40-50% alcohol. According to him it kills the germs in your mouth and stomach and makes you ready for the new day.
Split can be very hot in the summer with highs sometimes around 50°C (120°F). He talked about the brain as the young, educated population leave in search of good jobs; the price of apartments and real estate; the early laws that were passed; and much more.
We were on the way to his farm which has been in the family for 300 years. As we drove up the hills to his house, we noticed that the ground was very rocky. Farmers had to clear the rocks to cultivate any crop.
Alas, the weather was the opposite of that in Dubrovnik. It was rainy and chilly. The picture was take out of the bus window and shows the rain and a Roman Aqueduct.
But the weather did not change the great time we had.
When we arrived we were offered a shot of grappa (more on grappa later)and a plate of antipasta.
After a bit we were served a traditional Croatian dish that looks like a giant pizza. The process to make the dough starts when a fire is built on a large stone and allowed to heat the stone up. Dough is rolled out on a round wooden platter. The a mixture of olive oil, onions, and spinach (?) was spread on top of the dough. Then a second layer of dough is put over the green mixture and the edges are sealed. Cornmeal is sprinkled on the top and using a second board, the pizza is turned upside down.
After that the coals ash are swept off the rock, the pizza was slid off the board (aided by the cornmeal) onto the stone.
Coals and ash are spread over the top and the pizza cooks for about 5 minutes. Garlic and olive oil are spread on top. It was very different and tasted quite good. On the left—our guide and farm owner cutting the pizza. On the right—one piece of the pizza.
The process was very interesting and a culinary experience. After that the entertainment started and fun ensued. There was a skilled accordion player who played nearly continuously. People mingled and talked.
Dave and Chuck (and others) gravitated to a picnic table that had 10+ bottles of homemade flavored grappas. Sampling ensued. The accordion was played, songs were sung. A good time was had. The video below may need a bit of time to download.
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As he kept playing people began to dance. Who would have thought Maureen and I would be doing the chicken dance in Croatia! (Caroline). This movie is large and will take sometime to download.
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After all of this we had a lunch of meat (pork, beef, and chicken), potatoes, and vegetables cooked in a pot on the stone slab. The picture on the lift shows the lid with coals on top and pot on the stone. On the left—during lunch we were entertained by a man playing a traditional instrument and singing, more like chanting a story.
I told you our guide was funny. On the way back to the ship he told this joke. How do you call an elevator in Croatia? You push the button. He also got a broom and told us he had purchased new transportation for his wife. Below are two pictures of our memorable guide
Even with less than desirable weather, we had a wonderful time on this excursion.